The View from
Rain Mountain:
Studley Do-Right Does his Paperwork
Studs and Stud Service
Originally published in two parts in the March and April 2002
issues of the Eventer
Part
1. Pre Breeding Information Gathering
The boy dog has the easy part of the job. He shows up, gets laid, and then
goes on to his next conquest. Unfortunately the owner of the stud dog may
think s/he has the easier job too. After all, there won’t be sleepless
nights delivering pups, babies to clean up after, and "eau de puppy"
smell permeating the house. Granted, the stud owner doesn’t have the
responsibility of raising the litter but there are responsibilities that are
nearly as important.
Thunder
is my first homebred stud and is having a popular year. I want to be very
sure that any dog that has Thunder and my kennel name in its pedigree is a
sound dog and a good example of the breed. Hence if I don’t think a certain
female is good enough, I would turn down the offer. It’s my responsibility
to turn down offers for stud service that I think won’t result in pups
better than both the sire and the dam. Thunder is a great dog but has faults.
I want to see him used with females that have the same overall good qualities
that he has yet, where he is weak, she is strong, and where she has faults,
he might moderate the chance of them showing up in pups. For example, I think
he could use more leg length. So I won’t breed him to females that also
need more leg. Nor will I breed him to females that are too long in the leg.
Breeding opposites doesn’t mean the pups will average out. Instead it
would give us a litter that is all either too short or too tall. I look for
girls that have the right leg length for our breed and that would benefit
from his genes for a good head, bone weight, and strength.
Always
analyze the pedigree of the potential litter. A friend of mine has a young
male Belgian Sheepdog that is very popular right now as he finished his championship
in no time flat and is an OFA Excellent. People with a very nice looking female
approached her for stud service. She liked the looks of the female but when
she compared the pedigrees of the potential litter, she was concerned that
there might be too high a chance for seizures to occur in the offspring. It
was a chance she didn’t want to take so she refused to let her male be
used and explained to them why. Both dogs individually are seizure free but
when their pedigrees are combined, the combination didn’t look good.
You don’t want to be caught off guard and have a litter with a fault
that impacts their soundness and quality of life.
Just
like raising puppies is not a money making proposition, neither is having
a dog at stud. Before he’s in demand for stud service, he’s been
trained, shown extensively including a high budget for entry fees and travel,
money spent on equipment and sporadic items like photos, and he’s worked
in some physical performance sport which meant his owner had sore muscles
that rated a doctor’s visit for the human. Then there are the hip x-rays,
eye checks, and other vet expenses. Did I mention food? All these things cost
a lot of money in both small dribbles and raging rivers of cash flow. Once,
while making a picture framer crazy with my demands, I tried explaining that
the championship certificate that he was framing was worth THOUSANDS of dollars
to me. Stud service fees will never make up for the expense of raising and
maintaining a good stud, at least not in my breed. I have him because first
off, he’s a great pet.
Someone
much wiser than me suggested I try a questionnaire to make the procdecision
makingess easier. Guess what? It actually works. You’ll see what I use
here: "Preliminary Information for Stud Service."
The
first and most obvious question is about the health of the female. Has she
received all the health clearances necessary for her breed? For my Chinooks
this means a hip x-ray that has been evaluated by OFA (some people will also
use GDC, PennHip, or a combination thereof). Eyes are examined by a vet ophthalmologist
to screen for potential cataracts or other genetic eye problems. Most people
also send the written results of this exam to CERF so that the results are
recorded, just as with OFA.
Do
research on your breed. As I mentioned, seizures can be a problem in my breed,
so I want to know about the potential dam’s possibility of this malady.
Did any of her parents or grandparents have seizures? Did any other pups in
her litter? Did her sire or dam, when bred to other dogs, produce pups that
had seizures? We wait until the girl is three years old usually to make sure
they aren’t affected since it may not start until the dog is a year or
two old. Each breed has unique health problems and it’s your responsibility
as the stud owner, as well as the bitch’s owner, to make sure that sire
and dam won’t disseminate these problems.
In
our breed it is also common practice to have our breeding stock DNA profiled.
If the bitch hasn’t had hers done, I expect this to be done prior to
the breeding. This way if there is any question that another male might have
"dated" her also, we’ll have the information we need already
on hand to sort out the pups. Yes, there can be more than one sire to a litter
of pups. Just like an accidental litter of pups, it happens to many breeders.
See the bitch in person or look at a number of photos (or even better, video)
that show her overall look. I want to see a headshot, a side view, a rear
view, and something in motion so I can see the side gait and front and rear
movement. My stud has a good head so this will tell me if this is something
that using him could offer as an improvement, or if the bitch also has a good
head, will we be setting type (the genes) for good heads. The side view tells
me about the overall balance of the dog, front and rear angulation, and if
there is a strong topline. Our dogs are sled dogs so a strong back (a good
level topline) is very important. I want to see good angulation in the rear
but it has to be balanced by shoulder structure that means the rear isn’t
overpowering the front or vice versa. Looking at a shot of the rear tells
me if we may have cow hocks that need to be improved upon. The shots of the
dog moving tell me more about its balance. Movement is everything to a sled
dog. Does the rear overstep the front? Does the dog single- track when viewed
from the front? Is the rear movement straight or does the dog show signs of
hocky-ness when moving that can’t be seen when it’s standing still?
Your breed will have it’s own unique features you’ll want to check
over thoroughly.
If
the bitch’s owner hasn’t already provided me with a pedigree of
the litter-to-be, I will probably work one up myself. If I’m not familiar
with the dogs in the further generations and any problems they had, I’ll
ask others who can fill me in. What are the hip ratings in the pedigree? What
is the incidence of other health problems?
What
experience does the female have? Has she earned conformation titles? If she
hasn’t been shown, who has evaluated her conformation? I have extreme
kennel blindness and presume others do too. Of course my dogs are the most
gorgeous of their breed! I’m sure yours is too! I want to know that an
objective, experienced person, or hopefully more than one, has evaluated her
conformation just as it would be in a show ring.
Has
the bitch earned any other titles, such as in obedience, agility, or other
performance events? They may not be directly related to the quality for breeding
but it does show a dog that probably has a good temperament and takes easily
to training, with physical stamina. Has she been worked in the various drafting
sports? Our breed are sled dogs so they should at least show the instinct
to pull, be it with a sled, a wheeled rig or cart, a scooter, or any other
means. No matter how good an example of the breed it is, it has to have working
capability. I feel this is also why conformation showing is important. A good
judge at a dog show looks at if the dog has the conformation to do the job
for which it was intended. Your dog may be bred to simply sit on your lap
but it still must be happy, healthy, and sound.
I
want to know that the owner of the bitch has looked at his/her dog with a
critical eye and has thought about what breeding this specific dog will actually
accomplish to our end goal of improving our breed. What faults does the breeder
think he or she can improve upon by breeding this female to my male? What
are the positive traits that the bitch will contribute that will hopefully
cancel out the faults that may be in my male or overall in our breed? What
I think of the possible combination may be something totally different even
if we both agree that it would be wonderful.
I
also want to know if the bitch’s owner is prepared for the work of raising
a litter. If they have experience, great. I’ll ask a few basic questions.
If not, I want to know in more detail of how they plan to handle the logistics.
Will someone be available during the day or at minimum a mid day check while
the breeder is at work? What is the physical set-up in which the pups will
be raised? If they are new to raising a litter, who will be helping them?
Someone else with your breed or even a totally different breed that lives
close and is willing to answer questions is extremely valuable. So make sure
you have these people as friends. Buy them expensive Christmas gifts if necessary.
Also,
what are the plans for placing the pups? Do they have people who have already
expressed interest or even reserved pups? Does the breeder plan to keep a
pup? How will they place pups that are not spoken for? What is the screening
process for potential homes? In case they have to, are the prepared to keep
the pups longer if good homes can’t be found? Are they prepared to take
back pups for the whole of their lifetime? (A responsible breeder will take
a pup back even years later. I know of one breeder who took back a fourteen-year-old
dog she had bred.) I also want to review a copy of the ownership agreements
that will be executed with puppy owners. I have a very detailed one that I
ask new owners to sign and I want to ensure that the breeder will be taking
just as much care with the placement of his or her pups as I do with mine.
I have in some cases even gone to the extent of asking that I be allowed to
approve the potential homes as well if I have any concerns.
Since
our overall goal is to improve the quality of our breed for generations to
come, I put my litters through extensive evaluations for both temperament
and conformation prior to deciding which pup goes to which homes. If I’m
not going to be able to evaluate the litter myself, I want to know who will,
other than the breeder (that darned kennel blindness crops up again!) be doing
evaluations. I want to ensure that the pups with the best potential as future
breeding stock go to homes where they will be kept intact for more evaluation
as they grow up and possibly producing even better in the next generation.
This may mean another established breeder or it may mean a home that is interested
in the breed and is willing to raise even just one litter.
Lastly
I want to know about the bitch’s "schedule." Do they plan to
do a natural breeding or AI? If it is to be a live breeding, who is traveling
to whom? Standard procedure is that the bitch comes to the stud but there
are exceptions. Has the breeder done any testing on her previous seasons?
Does the breeder know when she should be expected to ovulate? If an AI is
to be done, will it be chilled or frozen? Does his or her vet have experience
with the techniques to be used?
Needless
to say, there are many phone calls, emails, and letters prior to even deciding
to go ahead with the breeding. And at this point, we haven’t even begun
to discuss the contract for stud service. That’s next next in Part 2
of Studley’s adventures, when we’ll go through some actual stud
contracts.
A side note of thanks: Many of the members of the Showdogs-L email group provided
me copies of their stud contracts and breeding criteria for use in writing
this article. If you are active in showing and breeding dogs, you may want
to check out this list and others like it. For information on Showdogs-L,
you can check out Showdogs-L at (sorry for the very long URL).
Rain
Mountain Chinooks Preliminary Information for Stud Service:
1.
Health clearances and identification; please provide copies of paperwork where
applicable.
OFA (or GDC, PennHip)
CERF
Seizure free at age three
Pre Breeding health check including negative brucellosis test, pelvic exam
to ensure the bitch will whelp freely if she has not been bred before, and
all vaccines current.
Identification of the bitch including DNA profile, registration number, microchip,
or tattoo.
2.
Current photos of the female including head, side, front and rear. If possible,
video is appreciated. The best situation would be if I could evaluate the
bitch myself or have someone I am comfortable with evaluate her on my behalf.
3.
A pedigree of the planned litter that includes analysis of the potential genetic
defects that can occur.
4.
What is the bitch’s experience: Conformation titles, shows entered, results?
Working experience? What level of training has she achieved? Has she traveled
away from home in the past? Give a thorough description of her temperament.
5.
What are your goals for this breeding? What faults do you want to improve
upon with this breeding? What do you feel the bitch will contribute to our
breed through her offspring? Why do you want to use a Rain Mountain stud?
6.
Plans for whelping and rearing the litter: · What is the physical
set-up in which the pups will be raised? · What is your experience
raising litters? · If you are new to dog breeding, who will be
helping you locally?
7.
Plans for placement of the pups: · Do you plan to keep any? ·
Who has reserved pups from this litter? · How will you place any
pups that are not spoken for prior to breeding? · Please provide
a copy of the prospective owner questionnaire that you will be sending out.
· Please provide a copy of the ownership agreement that you will
enter into with owners of pups from this litter. · Do you agree
to be permanently responsible for all pups produced should they ever be in
a rescue or re-homing situation?
8.
In addition to yourself, who will be evaluating the litter for conformation?
For temperament?
9. When do you expect the bitch to be in season? Have you done any progesterone testing on her to determine what days she will ovulate? Will you be pursuing a live breeding or AI? If AI, will it be fresh or frozen semen? Will this be performed by a veterinarian? If so, please provide the name and a contact phone number.
Part
2. The Stud Contract
In my last article, we covered things to think about BEFORE agreeing to use
your male at stud with a given girl dog. Now it’s time to actually move
on to the contract for stud service. A sample is included here and you are
very welcome to use it if you like. Much of my contract comes originates from
contracts shared with me from other breeders on the Showdogs-L email list
so once again, thanks to all the list members who contributed their wealth
of knowledge.
Even
among the best of friends, a written agreement for stud service is the only
way to go. You don’t want to be in a situation where some key point has
inadvertently been left out of discussions and results in disagreements. These
disagreements can get ugly! Get it in writing! I have had the unfortunate
experience of being dragged into court over a stud contract (I won of course)
and I hope this never happens to any of you. People have very strong emotions
about their pets and these emotions can fly off the handle quickly. Unless
you want to contribute to your attorney’s new lake front real estate,
get your stud contract in writing.
Hopefully
by going through all the pre-breeding discussions above, you will have most
details worked out. But there are still a few items to be determined.
I
like to emphasize that the owner of the dam takes responsibility for doing
the best job possible raising the pups. In a stud contract I ask that the
pups receive at least one set of vaccinations prior to leaving the litter
and that great care is taken with early socialization. Usually by this time,
we’ve discussed these things while reviewing the logistics of how the
litter is to be raised. In my breed, Chinooks, we used to see problems with
shy dogs but by emphasizing socialization and NOT breeding shy dogs, we’ve
got away from that problem. However I still like to emphasize socialization
in my contracts.
But what does constitute a breeding? If it is to be a natural breeding, how
many "ties" do you commit to? What about an outside tie, does it
count? If it is to be via artificial insemination (AI and in this case it
doesn’t mean artificial intelligence as you will find that your boy dog
looses his brain whenever he is being bred), how many times will you ship
semen? Do you guarantee that the semen will arrive alive? If it is via AI,
is the owner of the bitch working with a skilled veterinarian or is he or
she performing the process his or her self? I have one breeder-friend who
has been a career veterinary technician and is totally capable of doing her
own AIs but I would not want to waste my time shipping semen to an unskilled
novice with a turkey baster.
Okay
so you did the breeding and the bitch whelps her pups. What constitutes a
litter? Does one pup count? Do you guarantee at least two? One breeder who
I knew had such bad luck with a previous stud she tried to use, I agreed that
a litter would constitute at least three pups. It was her first litter and
I wanted to see her be successful. I figured that one pup was for her, one
would recoup the expenses she was incurring for the AI, and if there were
a third, then and only then would she pay me a stud fee other than the actual
costs incurred for the breeding itself. Yes, I may be giving away money but
I am far more interested in seeing someone else be successful. If she has
a nice litter, my Thunder will get credit for being the sire and more people
may be interested in using him, hence I felt this was an investment in Thunder
and my future.
Most
stud owners will offer a repeat breeding if the first one doesn’t take
or only results in one pup. After all, we can’t control Mother Nature.
So if someone brings a female to Thunder to be bred and no pups result, I’ll
offer a repeat breeding to the same bitch. If the bitch owner wanted to use
another bitch, I would consider it as long as this substitute meets all my
requirements. Personally I’m going to negotiate this on a case-by-case
basis rather than writing it into the contract. So be sure to discuss this
ahead of time and make sure you and the bitch’s owner are in agreement
as to how you will handle things if a litter doesn’t arrive or if they
don’t survive the first few weeks.
The
meat of the agreement is just what will the stud fee be? Will it be a puppy-back
or cash?
If it is to be a cash stud fee, what will be the dollar amount and when will
it be paid? Stud owners seem to fall into two camps. Some want the stud fee
or a deposit on it up front. I prefer, having raised many litter myself, to
ask for the stud fee at the time the puppies are placed. This means the breeder
can conserve cash while the babies are growing. Vet expenses are unpredictable
and food for a big litter can be expensive. I’d rather see the breeder
have a good cash flow while the pups are growing and take money for the stud
fee when the money from the sale of the pups comes in. Since the owner of
the stud must sign the litter registration, I ask that it be paid at the time
I sign this document.
And
just how much is a cash stud fee? It seems to be a very common practice to
have the stud fee equal to the price of the most expensive pup in a litter.
If the breeder were selling the pups for $1,000 then the stud fee would be
$1,000. I’ve also heard of basing the stud fee on the number of pups
produced. For example, there is a basic amount of $500 for a litter of up
to three pups then it goes up by a certain amount, say $100, for every additional
pup. But if your breed has only small litters this may not be the best approach,
as compared to breeds where ten or more pups are average.
If the stud fee is to be a puppy back, that means even more details to be
worked out ahead of time. It is my opinion that the owner of the bitch should
always have first pick, especially if he or she plans to keep the pup as part
of the family. If I know they are not going to keep a pup, I may ask for first
pick since I know my pup would be used in my future breeding program (hopefully)
or I would want to know that the pup was going to another experienced breeder.
So if the bitch’s owner were going to keep a pup, I would ask for second
pick. As the stud owner, my dog is only supplying the needed ingredient to
get the girl pregnant. It is the girl dog and her owners that are taking on
the majority of the risk. Your bitch could lose her life in the process of
carrying and delivering a litter. The bitch owners is doing all the work of
raising a litter and trust me, that’s a lot of work. I have never lost
a bitch due to pregnancy and whelping but I did have one close call. After
I was through it all and the pups were healthy 8-week old troublemakers, I
was not going to let someone else take my favorite. So I feel it is only fair
of me to give the bitch owner the same consideration that I would want myself.
If I’m taking a pup as my stud fee, the question is how will my pup be
selected. Hopefully I would actually see the litter and choose for myself.
If I can’t get there, I might ask another friend/breeder to pick for
me. Either way, I want to know that I’m getting the pup best for my future
breeding program and not just the one with the cutest expression. I want the
person selecting for me to know what they are doing. I also want to know when
the selection will be made. I have friends who swear by picking pups when
they are five weeks old. Personally I think this is too young as I put a lot
of emphasis on movement and at five weeks, they are usually still falling
over their own feet. I like to choose Chinook pups at between six and a half
to eight weeks. Before that they lack movement and after that every part of
their body starts growing at a different rate and they look ghastly until
they are mature adults.
It’s
also necessary to nail down the potential costs of the breeding and make sure
who is covering what. Standard procedure is that the owner of the bitch covers
all the costs. I arrange ahead of time, in the case of AI, that they give
my vet their credit card number to cover the cost of drawing semen. If it’s
a live breeding, they cover the cost of getting the bitch to me, or, in rare
cases, of my male traveling to them. I’m pretty flexible and don’t
ask for my gas or phone expenses as even if I wasn’t driving around for
a breeding and calling them frequently, I would be driving somewhere and calling
someone.
A note here on who travels to where: It is standard procedure that the bitch
travels to the stud. You want your boy to be feeling confident and manly and
he is most likely to feel this way on his home turf. Also some girls can be
a little cocky about breeding (read that as "tempted to take the boy’s
face off"). Having them in a strange environment will mean that they
are a little more subdued and the breeding goes easier. That means that when
I have a bitch here for breeding, I am taking care of her and I am responsible
for making sure that the breeding happens in a responsible fashion. There
are exceptions and they must be worked out ahead of time. A breeder-friend
of mine had a group of girls that were all good matches for my Thunder. We
arranged that Thunder would go to her for a few months (yes, I missed him
tremendously) so that she could breed him to the first two that came into
season. Of course, Thunder knew her well and had visited her home with me
before so I knew he would be safe and well taken care of. Since we are on
opposite coasts, it also meant shipping only one dog to her instead of her
shipping multiple dogs to me. This was a special case though and I would not
let my boy visit just anyone. Of course, the bitch’s owner feels the
same way about her dogs so make sure you have had long discussions if either
of the dogs involved is going to be away from home.
I
include in the stud contract that I expect all pups to be placed in family
homes and that none will be placed in a puppy mill situation or with anyone
who brokers to pet stores. I ask that none be placed in homes where they will
be bred indiscriminately. After all, these are genes from my bloodlines and
I want to make sure that others value them as highly as they are by me. I
don’t want my bloodlines to be tossed out there where they will be used
to the detriment of our breed. I also ask that there be a written ownership
agreement executed for every pup and that I be given a copy of these documents.
When working with novice breeders, I have even asked that I be given approval
of all placements and I always help the bitch owner find homes for the pups.
Since
the genes of my boys are just as important as those of my girls, I ask that
I be kept aware of any health problems that might crop up among the pups.
This means that I am given the names of the new owners and that they agree
to keep in touch with me as well as with the owner of the dam. I want to know
if my stud has produced pups that are either turning out dysplastic or if
they are getting Excellent ratings from OFA as this information ahs a huge
impact on my future breeding decisions.
Here’s
the scary part of a stud contract that I have learned from my lawyer friends.
You have to state penalties. If the owner of the dam does something that is
in total disregard of your stud contract, unless you have stated a penalty
for doing so, you don’t have recourse other than to get angry and possibly
have a good whine. State a dollar figure f or a penalty and state whom would
mediate any disagreement. Our breed club includes a few attorneys so if a
disagreement was to occur, it would be easy to have one of these club members
mediate for us and help resolve things. It may sound nasty but it is far easier
than ending up in court.
The moral of the story is GET IT IN WRITING. Have I said that often enough yet? Make sure your contract covers all the special circumstances. Make sure you are confident that the owner of the bitch will do a responsible job taking care of mom-to-be and the pups. If you don’t feel comfortable, don’t undertake the breeding.
Rain
Mountain Chinooks
Sample Contract for Stud Service:
We agree that this breeding is being undertaken for the overall improvement
of the Chinook breed. We believe that pups resulting from this breeding will
carry traits that we wish to encourage, both physically and in temperament.
We agree that pups will be placed in the best homes possible and that each
new owner will sign an Ownership Agreement that outlines specifically the
conditions the Chinook will be maintained in over the course of it’s
lifetime.
We
agree that both the owner of the sire and the owner of the dam have disclosed
all health information on their respective Chinooks, including hip certification,
an eye exam, and any incidence of seizures.
The
owner of the dam agrees to take reasonable care of the dam during her pregnancy,
during the whelping, including calling a veterinary for assistance in case
of problems, and to raise the pups with care. Pups will have at least one
set of vaccinations prior to leaving the litter and will be wormed also. Care
will be taken to socialize the pups to all reasonable situations, including
different floor surfaces, noises that are typical in a family home, contact
with different sorts of people, and other potential stressors.
What
Constitutes a Breeding
A breeding will be considered to consist of two transfer of semen from the
stud to the bitch. This will be either via a live breeding conducted while
the bitch is in standing heat on at least two occasions, AI breeding with
chilled semen transmitted vaginally on two occasions, or a surgical AI on
the appropriate date.
What
Constitutes a Litter
A litter will be considered to be at least two pups surviving to the age of
eight weeks. If the bitch does not conceive or looses the pups due to causes
of nature beyond the owner’s control, a repeat breeding will be provided
to the same bitch during her next season at no additional charge to her owner.
The
Stud Fee
The stud fee will either consist of a cash payment or a puppy back
______
Cash Stud Fee
______ Puppy Back
If
the stud fee is to be a cash stud fee, it will be equal to either $800 or
the highest price a puppy from this litter is sold for, whichever amount is
greater. The fee must be paid prior to the owner of the stud signing the litter
registration, or of any puppies leaving the litter, whichever is first.
If
the stud fee is to be a puppy back, it is agreed that:
--The owner of the bitch will have the first choice if he or she plans to
keep this puppy in his or her possession and as full legal owner. In this
case the owner of the stud will have second pick of the remaining pups.
--If the owner of the bitch will not keep possession of any pup from the litter,
the owner of the stud will have first pick.
Selection
of the pup by the stud owner will be done when the pups are _____ weeks of
age. The stud owner will either choose the pup in person or will have ______________
select the pup on her behalf. Prior to selection of the pup by the stud owner,
the breeder agrees to provide the stud owner with evaluation notes. This evaluation
will be performed by: ___________________________________.
Costs
and Logistics of the Breeding
The owner of the dam agrees to pay all costs associated with the cost of this
breeding. This may include the cost of transportation of the bitch to the
stud, the cost of drawing semen and shipping it, be it fresh or frozen, and
the costs associated with the rearing of the litter.
It
is standard for the bitch to travel to the stud. If this breeding involves
dogs that live in areas not within easy driving distance, travel arrangements
are as detailed below:
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
Placement
of the Pups
The owner of the dam agrees to exercise care in the placement of the pups.
No pups will be placed where they will be in a "puppy mill" situation
or with anyone that brokers pups to pet stores. No pups will be placed in
homes where they will be bred indiscriminately. All pups will be placed as
pet quality on a spay/neuter agreement, or, if they have potential for breeding,
will be kept in co ownership with the owner of the dam. All pups will be placed
with a written Ownership Agreement. A copy of this agreement will be forwarded
to the stud owner.
Since
it is critical to the further success of our breed that both the owners of
the sire and dam are aware of any genetic faults that may occur as the pups
mature, the owner of the stud will be provided names and contact information
for each person acquiring a pup from this litter. These owners agree to forward
health information to the stud owner (such as the results of hip x-rays and
eye exams) as the information becomes available.
Registration
of the Pups
All pups from this breeding will be eligible for registration by the United
Kennel Club. The owner of the sire agrees to sign the litter registration
when the above criteria are met. The owner of the dam agrees to forward the
litter registration in a timely fashion to the UKC and to later forward permanent
registration paperwork to the owners of the pups from this litter.
Penalties
Should either the owner of the sire or dam not meet the terms outlined in
this agreement, the injured party will be entitled to $2,000.00 in damages.
Both parties agree that knowledgeable parties will mediate any disagreements,
and that they will abide by the results of the mediation. The mediator will
be either a professional mediator, a person representing the Chinook Owners
Association or the United Kennel Club, or the small claims court located in
the jurisdiction of the injured party.
|
Sire
|
Dam
|
|
Registered Name |
||
| UKC Registration Number | ||
| OFA Number | ||
| CERF | ||
| Titles | ||
| Microchip/Tattoo | ||
| Legal
Owner, including address, phone, email |
Signature of Owner of Stud, including date signed
_______________________________________________________
Signature of Owner of Dam, including date signed
______________________________________________________________